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Chapter 15

Glass, Plastic, and Ceramic Products

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Glass, plastic, and ceramic products are both functional and attractive cabinet components. Glass sheets are used for windows. Plastic may be molded to replace real wood, made in sheets to replace glass, or to be used as countertops. Ceramic tile adds beauty while it protects countertops and other surfaces.

Summary

Glass, plastic, and ceramics are functional and decorative materials. Glass windows and ceramic tile have been used for thousands of years. Molded glass has been formed into knobs and pulls in the past two hundred years. During the past century, plastic has replaced many glass and ceramic products. Plastic typically is stronger, more flexible, and less apt to break. Plastic also can be formed or bonded into complete furniture pieces.

Glass is available in many forms. Flat glass is the most common glass form for cabinetry. Glass may be clear, decorative, tinted, or mirrored. It may also be tempered to increase its strength. Leaded glass panels are made with decorative glass pieces and lead came. The came is soldered around the edges of the glass. Colored glass is used to make stained glass panels.

Plastics may replace other materials. Clear sheet plastic might replace glass. Molded plastic can replace wood components. Plastics are either ­thermoset or thermoplastics. Thermoset plastic ­products are permanently shaped during manufacture. Thermoplastics may be heated and reshaped. Tile may cover floors, cabinet tops, and table surfaces. Ceramic tile is made of baked clay. Tiles are bonded to the surface with mastic. Spaces between tile are filled with grout. Slate, a form of rock, is applied like ceramic tile. Slate size may be random or all one dimension.

Two methods for cutting glass, plastics, and ceramic are fracturing and sawing. Fracturing involves scoring the material and breaking it along the score line. When sawing glass or ceramics, use a carbide tipped blade. Certain plastics also require a carbide blade.

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Chapter 16

Mechanical Fasteners

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Cabinets may be assembled and installed with mechanical fasteners. Fasteners include nails, staples, screws, anchors, bolts, and ready to assemble (RTA) fasteners. The type of fastener you select depends on the required strength of the joint. Threaded fasteners hold tighter than those without threads. RTA fasteners allow you to disassemble and reassemble cabinets easily. RTA fasteners also work well with manufactured panel products. Other fasteners provide readily removable access panels.

Fasteners are made of both metal and non-metal materials. Metal fasteners are made of steel, aluminum, copper, or brass. Plastic fasteners are usually white or black. Plastic fasteners do not rust. Metal fasteners used in cabinets and furniture often are coated with paint or plated with another metal. Platings include brass, copper, chrome, zinc, and nickel. Steel fasteners may be galvanized (plated with zinc) to prevent rust. Others include paint and lacquer which may be sprayed onto fasteners. Brass or copper fasteners may be used. However, these are more expensive than steel fasteners.

Summary

Mechanical fasteners include all metal and nonmetal joining devices. Many different styles are available and each may have a general or specific purpose. Wood screws are the most widely used threaded fastener. You will likely assemble cabinets and attach hardware with them. Some unthreaded fasteners are used. Nails and staples are inserted to attach cabinet backs. Casing nails are designed to attach trim; they can be set below the wood. Sheet metal fasteners, such as chevrons and corrugated fasteners, are excellent for fastening miter joints.

Anchors are used to attach cabinets to walls. They are designed for both hollow walls or concrete block, and solid concrete and brick.

RTA fasteners permit cabinets to be assembled and disassembled with ease. The joint strength does not decrease if the cabinet is disassembled many times. Bolt and cam connectors or concave bolt connectors are selected for strength. Snap clips or plug and socket connectors are chosen for quick release.

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Chapter 17

Hardware

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Hardware serves many functions that add convenience to a cabinet. Hinges allow doors to swing open for easy access. Drawer slides provide smooth opening and closing drawers. Shelf rests support adjustable shelving.

Hardware can also enhance the appearance of the cabinet. There are many styles, materials, and finishes. Hidden hinges are typically steel that may be plated with nickel to prevent rust. Decorative hinges are painted or plated with another metal, such as brass. Pulls and knobs may be wood, metal, porcelain, glass, or several types of plastic. Solid surface material knobs and pulls can match the countertops. Hardware may be brushed (slightly roughened) to reduce gloss, or it may be polished to increase the shine.

Summary

Hardware adds convenience and beauty to cabinetry. Pulls and knobs assist you when opening doors and drawers. Most are decorative. Door hardware includes hinges and sliding tracks. Many varieties of hinges are available. They may be visible, semiconcealed, or hidden completely. Choose them according to the cabinetry style you intend to build. Catches hold hinged doors closed either mechanically or by magnetism. Latches both hold the door closed and help to open the door. Drawer slides are selected according to extension, capacity, and type of mount. Shelf supports are small rods or brackets that hold shelves. They may be inserted into a shelf strip or directly into holes in the cabinet sides. Locks are installed to protect contents of the cabinet. Common lock types are cam action, bolt action, and ratchet action. Casters are mounted on cabinet bottoms for mobility. Drop lids and drop leaf tables require hinges as well as lid supports and stays. Furniture glides protect the bottom of the cabinet from chipping. Furniture levelers permit you to stabilize cabinets on an uneven surface.

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Chapter 18

Health and Safety

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No workplace is perfectly safe. All you can do is to make it as risk-free as possible. There are many health and safety concerns for cabinetmakers. They include protecting yourself as well as looking out for others. Always have a well planned, organized, and controlled safety program.

Accidents occur as the result of:

	Unsafe acts.
	Hazardous conditions.

Summary

An accident and injury-free workplace is always a worthy goal. Work carefully, yet also look for hazards that result because of an unsafe environment.

Accidents occur to both the novice and experienced cabinetmaker. Many accidents occur to novice cabinetmakers because they fear the machines. Confidence is very important. It comes from planning your work carefully and gaining experience. Unfortunately, some people become overconfident that leads to carelessness. Be aware of the risks you might take.

People always think about an accident after they are injured. Experienced cabinetmakers say they knew better, but were in a hurry or didn’t own the proper tool. They took shortcuts and didn’t follow all the precautions. The novice cabinetmaker may not know better. This is why novices should try to watch an experienced cabinetmaker in action.

Your shop is only as safe as you make it. Machine guards, eye protection, and other safety items are effective only when used properly. Warnings about unsafe acts and hazardous conditions serve only those who read and heed them.

Having skill and knowledge about machines and processes is not enough to prevent accidents. These are important, but must be accompanied by a positive attitude toward safety. Too often you take risks and your attitude improves only after an injury or a near miss.

Safety tips are given throughout the remaining chapters. They relate to safe practices in each area of cabinetmaking. If you are a novice, read and learn each safety tip. If you are an experienced cabinetmaker, review them as a reminder to you.

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Chapter 19

Ordering Materials and Supplies

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The two most important factors when ordering are to be thorough and economical. Being thorough requires you to know and specify the exact quality and quantity of every material, supply, and tool it will take to complete your product. Being economical means getting the right price for the right quantity at the right time at the quality level you need.

Summary

Be thorough when ordering materials, supplies, and tools. Know exactly your needs when shopping over the counter, by telephone, facsimile or through the mail.

Be economical in what you buy. The least expensive item may be the most costly, if it does not do the job as well. Shopping at a store allows you to inspect items before you pay for them. This is time consuming and may not be economical. Purchases by telephone, facsimile and mail require less of your time. However, you must be very accurate when preparing your order. Grades, qualities, quantities, model numbers, and other information is essential. Rarely can you include too many specifications. Too little information may prevent filling the order.

You should know your exact needs from the bill of materials. When ordering, look for the highest quality products for the lowest cost. You may wish to buy in quantity to reduce the price. However, if you buy too much, you have to store it. You also risk the chance of it becoming outdated.

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Chapter 20

Measuring and Laying Out Materials

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Accurate measurement and layout is essential for high quality cabinetmaking. Your design means very little unless you can transfer the shapes onto your materials. With skillful measuring, you can mark, cut, and assemble parts with precision.

Much of cabinetmaking relies on square edges and joints. Squareness simply means that all corners join at a 90° angle. When a piece is not cut square, or two pieces are not assembled square, the entire cabinet is affected.

This chapter describes how to mark accurate geometric shapes on your materials. A number of tools are used by cabinetmakers to complete layouts. These include marking, measuring, and layout tools.

Summary

The size of cabinet components are only as accurate as your layout. Three types of tools are used when laying out material: marking tools, measuring tools, and layout tools.

Marking tools include pencils, awls, and knives. They indicate measurements and location points on your material. Measuring tools include rules, gauges, and squares. Many of these are also used as layout tools. Layout tools transfer distances, angles, and contours. Those without measurements on them must be preset with a measuring tool. Layout tools include T-bevels, angle dividers, calipers, compasses, dividers, trammel points, and template formers.

When laying out material, you construct lines, polygons, circles, and curves. Patterns may be made to trace your design onto the material. Square grid patterns transfer complex shapes from working drawings to stock. For often-built cabinets, a layout rod may be used. It is marked with all the critical measurements of the cabinet.

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Chapter 21

Sawing with Stationary Power Machines

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Sawing with stationary power machines is the most fundamental processing operation in cabinetmaking. Cabinetmakers use table saws, radial arm saws, band saws, panel saws and scroll saws to cut lumber and composite materials. Although sawing is also an integral part of other cabinetmaking operations, such as joint making, this chapter focuses on the problems of sawing to size and shape.

Stationary sawing equipment is designed for either straight-line or curved-line cuts. However, saws for cutting curves will do both with a straightedge or fence. Selecting the proper saw involves several decisions.

	Select the safest saw for the cut you want to make.
	Choose an appropriate saw for the cut.
	Make sure the saw is available.
	Have prior instruction and experience with the machine.
	If more than one saw is appropriate, choose the one you most prefer.

Summary

Sawing is a fundamental process in cabinetmaking. Stationary power saws cut lumber and composite materials to component sizes. Choose a saw and proper blade according to the material and direction of cut. For sawing straight parts, choose a table saw or radial arm saw. For cutting curved components, select a band saw or scroll saw.

The saw blade makes a big difference in the edge. The proper saw blade makes the operation efficient. Selecting the wrong blade may result in a splintered surface or burnt edge.

To saw efficiently, blades must be sharp. Jointing, setting, gumming, and filing (grinding) are all steps in sharpening. Some blades can be hand sharpened. However, it is best to have blades sharpened by a professional with the appropriate machines. Also maintain machines properly. Inspect, clean, adjust, and lubricate them periodically.

Follow all safety guidelines as you work. Have a firm footing and keep your distance from the point of operation. Use your senses of sight, sound, touch, and smell to detect potential problems. Think safety and act safely.

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Chapter 22

Sawing with Hand and Portable Power Tools

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Stationary power saws are used by most cabinetmakers. However, there are a few  situations when you will select a handsaw or portable power saw instead of a stationary machine. For some cuts, stationary saw setup time may take too long. Other times, you may be installing on-site architectural base, trim, and other woodwork where stationary machines are not available.

Summary

Hand and portable power saws are used when a stationary power saw is not appropriate or unavailable. Handsaws are best suited for cutting lumber and low density manufactured wood products. Power saws equipped with carbide tipped blades will cut through most any material.

Handsaws used in cabinetmaking for straight cutting include backsaws and dovetail saws for accurate cuts and jointmaking.

Portable power saws for cutting straight lines include the circular saw and power miter saw. These are used on construction sites for cutting, framing, lumber, and paneling. The power miter saw cuts trim and base. In cabinetmaking, you can saw standard stock and paneling to approximate sizes. Some jointwork can even be done with the power miter saw. It is accurate, but has limitations on the size of material it can cut.

Portable power saws for cutting curved lines include the saber saw and reciprocal saw. These two are somewhat similar. They both use a straight, flat, blade and cut with short reciprocating strokes. The saber saw is more accurate, because you can control it better. The reciprocal saw is harder to handle, but is excellent for rough cuts. Most saws need relatively little maintenance. The blade should be periodically checked and discarded, if necessary. Portable power saws may or may not need lubrication. Check the maintenance manual or look for lubrication instructions on the saw housing.

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